My Newest Knit Purse Pattern: The Free Peter Purse!

Looking for a cute knit purse pattern? My newest free pattern – Peter Purse can be found at the bottom of this post but be sure to check out all of the free purses and bags here!

Let’s talk about something that doesn’t get enough love in the knitting world: the knit purse pattern. I mean, sure, we all swoon over sweaters and socks—but there’s something special about knitting your own bag. It’s practical, it’s stylish, and it’s surprisingly addictive.

So today, I’m sharing my newest knit purse pattern (you’ll find even more over on my tote, bag, and purse pattern page), the Peter Purse, which you’ll find at the bottom of this post.

But first, let’s chat about what makes a knit purse pattern work—and why you’re going to love this one.

Why I Love a Good Knit Purse Pattern

Every time I work up a new knit purse pattern, I get that “ooh, this one might be my favorite” feeling. Purses are such a fun mix of form and function—plus they’re quick to knit and easy to customize.

One of the most important things when choosing a knit purse pattern is structure. Nobody wants a saggy, floppy bag. That’s why I’m a big fan of using Lion Brand Coboo (affiliate link) for this project. It’s soft but still sturdy, and it’s the same yarn I used for my Baby June Dress free pattern—so if you’re into matchy-matchy mom-and-me knits, there’s a whole world of possibilities!

I paired it with KnitPicks size 6 (4mm) needles (affiliate link) and a cable needle (affiliate link) to work the center panel of the purse. Trust me, it’s easier than it looks. This one-piece construction is knit flat, folded, and sewn up the sides. The strap is worked separately and sewn on afterward.

The Key to a Secure Knit Purse Pattern: Closures & Buckles

Let’s talk security. The Peter Purse uses magnetic closures (affiliate link) to keep everything neatly tucked away without the struggle of buttons or zippers. And if you want to level it up, I added tri-glide adjustable buckles (affiliate link) to the strap for a professional finish.

These little touches take your knit purse pattern from “I made this in my living room” to “Where did you BUY that?” in a heartbeat.

If You Loved the Peter Purse, Try This One Too

Before I get to the Peter Purse itself, I’ve got another pattern you should know about: the Cable Crossbody Bag. If you’re the kind of knitter who loves texture, cables, and a bag that makes a statement, this one’s for you.

It’s another knit purse pattern that’s flat-knit and assembled afterward. Just like Peter Purse, it plays well with liners, closures, and buckles—and the yarn? It uses KnitPicks CotLin (affiliate link) too!

Lining and Assembly Help for Your Knit Purse Pattern

Want to line your new purse? I’ve got you. I made a full YouTube tutorial walking through how to sew a liner into a knit purse, step-by-step.

And for those of you who have asked (and yes, I get this question a lot), I’ve also written a full blog post tutorial on how to sew a strap onto a knit purse, including how I used tri-glide buckles (affiliate link) to make the strap adjustable.

Between those two resources, you’ll be ready to finish off your knit purse pattern like a pro.

Details About the Peter Purse Free Knit Purse Pattern

Alright, let’s get to the good stuff: the Peter Purse.

This knit purse pattern has a clean, modern shape with a cable panel front and back. It’s knit flat as one long rectangle (ish) with simple bind offs for the sides (to add some width) to shape the sides similar to how you bind off for a set in sleeve. After that, you just fold it in half, sew up the edges, and voila! You’ve got a super cute body of a purse.

Then, you’ll work a long strap (also knit flat), and attach it using your choice of tri-glide buckles (affiliate link) or just sew it on directly. The magnetic closures (affiliate link) make opening and closing it a breeze.

Everything about the Peter Purse is intentionally simple—so even if this is your very first knit purse pattern, you won’t be overwhelmed. And if you’re more experienced, you’ll appreciate the structure and polish this design offers.

My Go-To Tools for Any Knit Purse Pattern

In case you want to gather your supplies, here’s what I used for this project:

And as always, I recommend blocking the finished purse gently before sewing to make everything crisp. You’ll be shocked how much a good block can transform your knit purse pattern project!

Want More Knit Purse Patterns?

You’re in luck—because I’ve got a whole collection of knit purse patterns that I’ve designed and shared over the years. You’ll find fun textures, unique shapes, and easy-to-follow instructions over on my tote, bag, and purse pattern page.

Whether you’re knitting your first purse or your tenth, you’ll find something you love there.

Wrapping It All Up

I hope this post gave you all the inspiration (and the know-how) to try a new knit purse pattern—and that the Peter Purse becomes a go-to in your bag rotation. Whether you’re lining it, strapping it up with buckles, or just tossing it over your shoulder, it’s a knit you’ll actually use (and that’s always a win).

Let me know if you give it a try—and don’t forget to check out the YouTube liner tutorial, the strap sewing tutorial blog post, and the other tote, bag, and purse patterns I’ve linked above.

Happy knitting, friend!

Peter Purse Pattern

MATERIALS AND INFO

Materials: 2 skeins of  Lion Brand Coboo 100g/232yds , yarn needle, cable needles, stitch markers, magnet closures, Buckles for the strap

Optional materials: fat quarter of a matching fabric, thread, needle (or you can use a sewing machine if you have one!), 1.5in canvas strapping

Needle Size: 6(US) 4mm needles

Gauge (tension): 24sts x 36rows to make 4in/10cm square

Finished Measurement: 9x9x1.5in or 23x23x4cms

METHOD

This pattern is worked in 1 piece, working flat. It is sewn together at the end to form the shape. The strap has a fun and easy cable that matches the center of the full cable pattern for less stretch you can sew on some canvas strapping on the back of the strap but that is optional (though highly recommended!) and uses buckles to make it adjustable length. I like to add a fabric lining to keep the bag itself from stretching but that is not required.

PETER CENTER CABLE STITCH PATTERN:

Row 1 (right side) – p4, 2/1RPC, 2/2LC, 2/1LPC, p4

Row 2 – k4, p2, k1, p4, k1, p2, k4

Row 3 – p3, 2/1RPC, p1, k4, p1, 2/1LPC, p3

Row 4 – k3, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k3

Row 5 – p2, 2/1RPC, p2, 2/2LC, p2, 2/1LPC, p2

Row 6 – k2, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k2

Row 7 – p1, 2/1RPC, p3, k4, p3, 2/1LPC, p1

Row 8 – k1, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k1

Row 9 – 2/1RPC, p4, 2/2LC, p4, 2/1LPC

Row 10 – p2, k5, p4, k5, p2

Row 11 – 2/1LPC, p4, k4, p4, 2/1RPC

Row 12 – k1, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k1

Row 13 – p1, 2/1LPC, p3, 2/2LC, p3, 2/1RPC, p1

Row 14 – k2, p2, k3, p4, k3, p2, k2

Row 15 – p2, 2/1LPC, p2, k4, p2, 2/1RPC, p2

Row 16 – k3, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k3

Row 17 – p3, 2/1LPC, p1, 2/2LC, p1, 2/1RPC, p3

Row 18 – k4, p2, k1, p4, k1, p2, k4

Row 19 – p4, 2/1LPC, k4, 2/1RPC, p4

Row 20 – k5, p8, k5

MAIN BODY OF BAG

Cast on 70sts

Work in Stockinette for 5 rows

Next Row: In this row you will add your buckles for you strap. Take the first 9sts and the last 9sts and place them on yarn needle (1yarn needle for each). Slide the buckle over these 9sts. Put theses 9 sts on either end back on your knitting needle. Fold the cast on edge so wrong sides are together, lining up the cast on edge with the current working sts. *Pick up the cast on stitch directly above the current stitch, k2tog, rep from * to the end of the row, the stitch count will not change.

Purl 1 row

Set-up Row 1: k22, p2, k2, p2, pm (Peter Center Cable marker) p5, (m1, k1) 4 times, p5, pm, p2, k2, p2, k22 (74sts)

Set-up Row 2: p22, k2, p2, k7, p8, k7, p2, k2, p22

Work in pattern, working Peter Center Cable between markers, until piece measures 10ins/25 cm measuring from cast on.

At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 9sts. (56sts)

You will now work as follows:

Right side row: k13, p2, k2, p2, sm work in Peter Center Cable, sm, p2, k2, p2, k13

Wrong side row: p13, k2, p2, k2, sm work in Peter Center Cable, sm, k2, p2, k2, p13

Work in pattern, working Peter Center Cable between markers, until piece measures 19.5ins/49 cm measuring from cast on.

FLAP

You will now work as follows:

Right side row: k13, p2, k2, p2, sm work in Peter Center Cable, sm, p2, k2, p2, k13

Wrong side row: k3, p10, k2, p2, k2, sm work in Peter Center Cable, sm, k2, p2, k2, p10, k3

Work in pattern, working Peter Center Cable between markers, until piece measures 24.5ins/61cm measuring from cast on.

HEM

Knit for 5 rounds

Fold over hem and sew it down.

STRAP

Cast on 12sts leaving a long enough tail to sew the strap to the buckle.

Right side row – [sl1, k1] across

Wrong side row – sl1, purl across

Work rows 1 & 2 for a total of 50ins/135cms from cast on edge.

Bind off leaving a long enough tail to sew the strap to the sliding buckle.

With right side facing out, sew your strap onto buckle on the left side. Now thread the sliding buckle onto the strap, then thread the strap through the right side buckle so the wrong sides are together. Then sew the end of the strap to the underside of the middle of the sliding buckle. This sliding buckle will allow you to adjust the height of the purse for your preferred length. See the video here for a visual of this process.

FINISHING

Sew the sides closed using the “wings” created when the 9 edge stitches on each side were bound off. If you will not be adding a cloth linking than you will add your magnetic closure now.

OPTIONAL LINING

Fold the fat quarter in half, place your bag down and draw about 1/4in/.5cm bigger than the bag (this gives you a seam allowance). Cut the fabric out. With right sides together sew the side and bottom edges of the fabric. (it doesn’t need to be perfect since it will be inside the bag.) You can use a sewing machine here if you have one. Leave the top open.

Place your cloth bag inside your knit bag. I highly suggest tacking the cloth bag down in a few spots along the seam.

I like to add my magnetic closure once I have sewn in the cloth bag to make it more sturdy.

I also like to sew some canvas strapping to the back of the strap because with any weight in the purse the strap will stretch. The strapping prevents that stretching, keeping your strap at the original length even after lots of use.

Weave in all ends. Load with all of your necessities and enjoy!

ABBREVIATIONS

k – knit

P – purl

pm – place marker

sm – slip marker

st – stitch

2/1LPC – slip the next 2sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle

2/1RPC – slip, the next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2 from left needle, them p1 from cable needle

2/2LC – slip the next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, k2 from left needle, k2 from cable needle

Peter Purse PDF (say that 5 times fast! 😉)

Peter PurseDownload

Affiliate Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. That means I may earn a small commission if you purchase through these links—at no extra cost to you. Thank you for supporting my knitting patterns and tutorials!

💬 Let’s chat! Have you ever knit a purse before? Drop a comment —I’d love to see what you make!

The post My Newest Knit Purse Pattern: The Free Peter Purse! appeared first on The Knit in the Womb Blog.



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