Free Top Down Cable Sock Pattern: Meet Ezra Socks
Looking for a top down cable sock pattern you’ll love knitting? Find the Ezra Socks at the bottom of this post! Visit my Free Sock Patterns Page for even more free sock patterns.
A top down cable sock pattern is simply a sock worked from the cuff toward the toe with a cable detail added to the fabric.
If you’ve been around my blog for more than two minutes, you know I’m always experimenting with textures, ribbing, and ways to keep socks interesting without making them fussy. This new top down cable sock pattern—the Ezra Socks—is exactly that blend of simple, rhythmic knitting with a little visual pop.
What makes this top down cable sock pattern special?
This top down cable sock pattern stands out because it uses a clean 2×2 rib that gently shifts into a cable, then flows right back into rib again.
Before we dig in, here’s the quick overview: these socks are top down with a heel flap, come in ankle or crew length, and stay snug without feeling tight.
I knit my ankle-length sample in KnitPicks Hawthorne (affiliate link) and my longer pair in Universal Yarn Zesty Sock (affiliate link). Both yarns handled the cable perfectly. I used size 1 (2.25mm) DPNs—because yes, I’m still loyal to my DPNs for socks after all these years.
If you’re brand new to socks, I have a full tutorial on the heel flap and gusset method linked on my site, along with my Beginner Knitting Series if you want to warm up before diving in.
How does the texture shift in this top down cable sock pattern?
The texture shifts smoothly because the cable is built straight out of the rib.
That means instead of adding a new stitch pattern, the rib simply crosses over itself for a few rows before returning to its original rhythm.
Here’s what happens step-by-step:
- You begin in 2×2 rib
- A small cable twist appears as you move down the leg
- The cable flows back into the rib without looking abrupt
- The rest is 2×2 rib
This construction keeps the top down cable sock pattern looking clean and intentional—no chunky transitions, no strange tension issues. The ribbing also makes them super stretchy, which is a big win if you’re making gifts and trying to fit different ankles and calves.
For another ribbed texture project, peek at my Chain Socks on the blog. They have a different stitch pattern but the same comfortable, wearable vibe.
What yarns work best for this top down cable sock pattern?
Any crisp sock yarn with good stitch definition will show this cable beautifully.
I personally used:
- Universal Yarn Zesty Sock (affiliate link) for the longer, crew-length version
- KnitPicks Hawthorne (affiliate link) for the ankle-length pair
Both yarns hold their shape and make the cable “pop” without feeling stiff.
If you’re someone who likes bold color changes, the Zesty Sock option shows cables better than you’d expect. And Hawthorne? It’s one of my go-tos for clean stitch definition.
This top down cable sock pattern isn’t picky, though. If you already have yarn in your stash, chances are it’ll work.
Why choose a top down cable sock pattern instead of toe-up?
A top down cable sock pattern gives you predictable shaping and perfect heel flap fit.
There’s something classic and satisfying about the top-down method. The heel flap especially gives that time-tested structure that hugs the heel in all the right places.
Here’s why I often choose this construction:
- The heel flap gives reliable durability
- Picking up stitches feels intuitive once you’ve done it a few times
- Cables sit nicely on a top-down sock because they flow from the cuff
- Blocking is simple
- You can stop early and make ankle socks or keep going for crew length
If you’re a toe-up knitter, don’t worry—I’ve got plenty of patterns for you too, including my Toe-Up September Socks.
How long does this top down cable sock pattern take to knit?
This top down cable sock pattern knits up surprisingly fast because most of the fabric is simple ribbing.
The cable section is short and sweet—it keeps things interesting, but it won’t slow you down.
Here’s my timeline:
- Ankle Length: roughly 3-4 evenings
- Crew Length: about 4-6 knitting sessions
Using DPNs also keeps the rhythm smooth, and once you’ve done a few repeats, it becomes autopilot knitting.
FAQ
How do I know if my gauge is correct for this top down cable sock pattern?
If your ribbing is stretchy but not sloppy, you’re probably spot on. Cables can tighten fabric slightly, so block your swatch first.
Is this a good first-time cable project?
Absolutely. The cable in this top down cable sock pattern is small, easy to memorize, and built directly into the rib.
Can I use magic loop instead of DPNs?
Yes! Magic loop works great for this pattern. I just personally prefer DPNs for socks.
What yarn weight should I use?
This top down cable sock pattern is written for fingering weight yarn. Anything labeled “sock yarn,” with a firm twist, will work well.
What tools do I need for this top down cable sock pattern?
You’ll need size 1 (2.25mm) needles (DPNs or circulars), a cable needle, and stitch markers. My favorite needles are linked in the post (affiliate link).
Final thoughts + your next knitting step
The Ezra Socks have quickly become one of my favorite designs because they look polished without requiring complicated stitches. If you’ve been craving a top down cable sock pattern that feels both classic and fun to knit, you’ll love making these.
You’ll find the full Ezra Socks pattern at the bottom of this post, and if you’re ready for even more sock knitting, check out my Free Sock Patterns Page or try the Chain Ankle Socks next.
Ezra Socks Free Pattern
Materials:
Yarn: 120 (180, 300, 380) 480 yds of Universal Yarn Zesty Sock (50g/231yd) or Knitpicks Hawthorne (100g, 357yds)
Needles: US #1 / 2.5mm DPNs (or circular for magic loop)
Notions: stitch markers, needle
Gauge: 8sts x 11rows per inch
sizing:
baby (toddler, child, adult M) L
Finished measurements (unstretched):
Leg Length (adjustable): 2.5 (3.5, 4.5, 6) 7ins/6, 9 (11, 12.5, 15) 17.5cms for full length
Foot Length (adjustable): 4 (6, 8, 10) 11.25ins/10 (15, 20, 25) 28 cms
Model is a US ladies size 10 made in adult medium.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page.
Stitch Pattern
Round 1 – t2f, t2b
Round 2 – p1, k2, p1
Round 3 – p1, k2, p1
Round 4 – p1, k2, p1
Round 5 – p1, k2, p1
Round 6 – p1, k2, p1
Round 7 – t2b, t2f
Cuff
Cast on 40, (48, 56, 64) 72 sts, join for working in the round.
Separate stitches on your dpn as follows:
1st needle (bottom of foot) – 20 (24, 28, 32) 36 sts
2nd and 3rd needle (top of foot) – 10 (12, 14, 16) 18 sts each needle
If using magic loop or small circulars place markers to mark the front and back of the foot
For regular length socks
Work in [k1,p2, k1] around for .75 (.75, 1, 1) 1in/2 (2, 2.5, 2.5) 2.5cms
Then work in above charted stitch pattern.
Then work in [k1, p2 k1] around until your work measures 2.5 (3.5, 4.5, 6) 7ins/6, 9 (11, 12.5, 15) 17.5cms from cast on or desired length (remember: if you add length you will use more yarn!)
For ankle length socks
Work in [k1,p2, k1] around for 6 (6, 7, 9) 11 rounds.
Then work in above charted stitch pattern.
Then work in [k1, p2 k1] around for 7 (7, 8, 10) 12 rounds
Heel Flap
Next round: You will work the heel flap on the next 20 (24, 28, 32) 36 sts. Place the remaining 20 (24, 28, 32) 36 sts on hold.
Row 1 (RS): (sl1, work in pattern established pattern) to end, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): (sl1, work in pattern established pattern, turn work.
Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 9 (11, 13, 15) 17 times.
This is a total of 18 (22, 26, 30) 34 rows.
Heel Turn
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k12 (14, 15, 18 ) 20, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2 (WS): sl1, p7 (7, 5, 7) 7, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Row 3: sl1, knit to 1 st before the gap, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 4: sl1, purl to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn work.
Repeat rows 3-4 until all stitches have been worked:
14 (16, 16, 20) 22 sts remain.
Knit across these heel stitches slipping the first st.
Gusset
Pick up and knit 10 (12, 14, 16) 18 sts along the edge of heel flap, PM,
Work in established pattern across 20 (24, 28, 32) 36 PM,
Pick up and knit 10 (12, 14, 16) 18 sts along heel flap,
k7 (8, 8, 10) 11 sts, mark the new BOR (located at the bottom of the foot).
[54 (64, 72, 84) 94 sts]
Round 1: knit to marker, sm, work in established pattern to marker, sm knit to bor marker
Round 2: knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, work in established pattern to next marker, sm, k1, ssk, knit to end [2 sts dec]
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 7 (8, 8, 10) 11 times.
[40, (48, 56, 64) 72 sts]
Foot
Shift beginning of round (BOR) remove marker as follows: remove marker, k10 (12, 14, 16) 18 place bor marker – this is the new BOR, located at the side of the foot.
Continue working in the round until the piece measures 3 (5, 6.5, 8) 9ins/5.5 (12.5, 16, 20) 22.5cms from back of heel, or 1 (1.5, 2, 2) 2.25ins/ 2.5 (3.5, 5, 5) 5.5cms less than desired foot length.
Toe
Round 1: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1 [4 sts dec]
Round 2: knit
Work rounds 1-2 a total of 6 (7, 9, 10) 12 times. until 16 (20, 20, 24) 24 sts remain.
Cut yarn leaving a long enough tail for sewing the toe closed, then graft toe using Kitchener stitch.
Weave in all ends
Kitchener stitch:
Place half the stitches on one needle, half the stitches on the other needle, (top and bottom NOT side to side)
Cut yarn (leaving a long yarn tail) and thread through a blunt needle.
Set-up steps: Insert needle purlwise (back to front) through the first st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle. Then insert needle knitwise (front to back) through the first st on the back needle, leaving the st on the needle.
Step 1: Insert needle knitwise through first st on front needle, then slip this st off the needle.
Step 2: Insert needle purlwise through the second st on front needle, leaving the st on the needle.
Step 3: Insert needle purlwise through first st on back needle, then drop this stitch off the needle.
Step 4: Insert needle knitwise through second st on back needle, leaving the st on the needle.
From this point to the end, repeat steps 1-4.
Kitchener stitch can be intimidating, but you get into a rhythm:
Front needle: knitwise drop off, purlwise leave on,
Back needle: purlwise drop off, knitwise leave on,
Repeat!
At the end of the row, there is only 1 stitch left on each needle.
Work steps 1 and 3 once more.
For a left-handed video tutorial of this visit my youtube here
Abbreviations
Bor- beginning of round
k – knit
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
P – purl
pm – place marker
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
sm – slip maker
st – stich
sts – stitches
T2B – twist 2 back – place the next purl st on your cable needle, hold in back, knit the next st, purl the st on the cable needle
T2F – twist 2 front – place the next knit st on your cable needle and hold in front, purl the next st, knit the st from the cable needle
Affiliate Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Have questions about the Ezra Socks? Want to share what yarn you’re using?
Drop a comment—I love hearing from you!
The post Free Top Down Cable Sock Pattern: Meet Ezra Socks appeared first on The Knit in the Womb Blog.
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