Love Came Down Sweater: A Free Bottom Up Raglan Sweater Pattern With Heart Details
Looking for a bottom up raglan sweater pattern? This one is soft, warm, and classic. Explore more on my sweater knitting pattern page.
What is a bottom up raglan sweater pattern?
A bottom up raglan sweater pattern is knit from the hem upward, worked in the round, and shaped at the shoulders with raglan increases or decreases that flow into the sleeves.
If you like knitting sweaters that feel structured, classic, and satisfying from start to finish, this construction style is such a good one to have in your skill set.
This post is all about the Love Came Down Sweater, and you’ll find the full free pattern at the bottom of this post.
Why did I design this bottom up raglan sweater pattern?
This bottom up raglan sweater pattern started with a very specific picture in my head: a warm, timeless Christmas sweater that would look just as good in church as it would worn casually.
I wanted something:
- Knit in the round
- With visible structure and shaping
- That felt special without being fussy
The heart cable panels came naturally. They run up each side of the body, tuck neatly under the arms, and continue up the sleeves, which gives the sweater visual interest without overwhelming the whole design.
What makes the Love Came Down Sweater special?
This bottom up raglan sweater pattern balances simple construction with meaningful details.
At its core, it is:
- Knit in the round from the hem up
- Seamless from start to finish
- Shaped with classic raglan lines
But the details are what really make it shine:
- Heart cable panels along the body and sleeves
- A soft, fluffy fabric that feels extra warm
- A silhouette that layers beautifully
It’s one of those sweaters that looks impressive but is still very approachable if you’re comfortable with knitting in the round and following cables.
What yarn did I use and why?
For the pictured sweater, I used KnitPicks Wonderfluff (affiliate link), and it was the perfect choice for this design.
Here’s why it worked so well:
- It’s incredibly soft and fluffy
- It creates beautiful stitch definition for cables
- It knits up warm without feeling stiff
This sweater was actually my 13-year-old daughter’s Christmas sweater. She wore it with a black velvet skirt to our church Christmas concert, and it was one of those proud mom moments where knitting and real life collide in the best way.
Because KnitPicks Wonderfluff (affiliate link) has that airy halo, the heart cables stand out while still keeping the overall look soft and classic.
Is this bottom up raglan sweater pattern beginner-friendly?
This bottom up raglan sweater pattern is best suited for an adventurous beginner or intermediate knitter.
Here’s a quick breakdown:
- You’ll need to be comfortable knitting in the round
- Basic cable knowledge is helpful
- Raglan shaping is clearly explained step by step
If you’ve already knit a hat or a simple garment and want to move into sweaters, this is a really satisfying next step.
If you’re newer to sweaters, I also recommend checking out my free sweater knitting patterns page for other styles and constructions.
Why choose a bottom up construction?
One reason I love a bottom up raglan sweater pattern is how predictable it feels as you knit.
You can:
- Try it on as you go
- Watch the body and sleeves come together
- Enjoy seeing the yoke take shape
There’s something very steady and grounding about starting at the hem and working your way up, especially if you like seeing progress clearly row by row.
If you enjoy learning about sweater construction, you might also like my post on seamless sweater knitting patterns.
How does the fit work with this pattern?
This bottom up raglan sweater pattern has a relaxed but polished fit.
The raglan shaping:
- Allows comfortable arm movement
- Creates clean shoulder lines
- Works well for layering
Because the heart cables run under the arms and up the sleeves, they visually elongate the sweater and give it a really balanced look.
Where do I find the Love Came Down Sweater pattern?
The full bottom up raglan sweater pattern for the Love Came Down Sweater is located at the bottom of this post.
Scroll down when you’re ready to cast on, and you’ll find everything you need to get started.
FAQ
Is this sweater knit in pieces or all in one?
This bottom up raglan sweater pattern is knit entirely in the round with no seaming required.
Can I substitute a different yarn?
Yes, but keep in mind that KnitPicks Wonderfluff (affiliate link) gives this sweater its soft, fluffy texture. If you substitute, look for a yarn with similar weight and halo.
Do I need cable needles?
Yes, a cable needle is helpful for the heart cable panels. I recommend using one you’re comfortable holding for short cable crossings.
Is this a good first sweater pattern?
If you’ve knit hats or simple garments before, this bottom up raglan sweater pattern is a great way to step into sweater knitting.
Final thoughts
In this post, we talked about what makes a bottom up raglan sweater pattern so enjoyable, how the Love Came Down Sweater is constructed, and why details like heart cables and yarn choice matter.
If you’re ready to knit something meaningful, warm, and timeless, scroll down to grab the Love Came Down Sweater pattern at the bottom of this post.
MATERIALS AND INFO
Size: 0-3m, 3-6m (6-12m, 12m) 18m, 24m (3/4y, 5/6y) 7/8y, 9/10y (11/12y, 13/14yrs)
Materials: Approximately 225, 275 (310, 355) 390, 420 (500, 585) 680, 785 (930, 1045) yds of KnitPicks Wonderfluff 50g/142yds , yarn needle, stitch markers
Needle Size: 9(US) 5.5mm circular needles and dpn, 8(US) 5mm circular and dpn
Gauge (tension): 17sts & 24 rows to make 10cm square, using size 9(US) 5.5mm needles working in stockinette stitch
Chest Measurement: 41, 44 (47, 50), 52, 54 (57, 61) 66, 72 (78, 84) cm or 16, 17.5 (18.5, 19.5) 20.5, 21.5 (22.5, 24) 26, 28.5 (30.5, 33) ins
METHOD
Love Came Down is a bottom-up raglan pullover. It is worked in the round with cables on the sides and the top of the sleeves. Created for our 4th child. She wanted something for Christmas that she could also wear all year.
Abbreviations can be found on the last page.
Note: choose size based on chest measurement for best fit. Measurements above are measurement of the person not sweater measurements.
Cable Heart Stitch Chart
Row 1 – p1, k4, cb1/2, cf2/1, k4, p1
Row 2 – p1, tf2/1, cb1/2, k2, cf2/1, tb1/2, p1
Row 3 – p2, k1, cb1/2, k4, cf2/1, k1, p2
Row 4 – p2, cb1/2, k6, cf2/1, p2
Row 5 – p2, k12, p2
Row 6 – p2, k12, p2
Row 7 – p1, cb1/2, k8, cf2/1, p1
Row 8 – p1, k14, p1
Row 9 – p1, k14, p1
Row 10 – p1, k14, p1
PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
Body
Cast on 88, 96 (100, 104) 108, 112 (116, 124) 132, 140 (152, 160) sts using the smaller circular needles and pm for bor.
Work in 1×1 rib (k1p1 around) for 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 3, 3 (3, 3) 4, 4 (4, 4)cms/ 1, 1 (1, 1) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) 1.5, 1.5 (1.5, 1.5)ins
Switch to larger size circular needles.
Set-up round – k15, 17 (18, 19) 20, 21 (22, 24) 26, 28 (31, 33), pm, p1, k4, m1, k4, m1, k4, p1, pm (these stitches will be your charted stitch pattern), k30, 34 (36, 38) 40, 42 (44, 48) 52, 56 (62, 66), pm, p1, k4, m1, k4, m1, k4, p1, pm (these stitches will be your charted stitch pattern), k15, 17 (18, 19) 20, 21 (22, 24) 26, 28 (31, 33)
[92, 100 (104, 108) 112, 116 (120, 128) 136, 144 (156, 164)sts]
Work as follows: k15, 17 (18, 19) 20, 21 (22, 24) 26, 28 (31, 33), sm, work charted stitch pattern, sm, k30, 34 (36, 38) 40, 42 (44, 48) 52, 56 (62, 66), sm, work charted stitch pattern, sm, k15, 17 (18, 19) 20, 21 (22, 24) 26, 28 (31, 33) for 14, 15 (17.5, 19.5) 21, 22.5 (24, 25) 27.5, 30 (32, 35) cm or 5.5, 6 (7, 7.75) 8.5, 9 (9.5, 10) 11, 12 (13, 14) measuring from cast on.
Last Row – work 19, 21 (22, 23) 24, 25 (26, 28) 28, 31 (34, 36)sts in pattern removing chart stitch markers as you get to them (this end the cable for the bottom under arm), bind off 8, 8 (8, 8) 8, 8 (8, 8) 10, 10 (10, 10)sts, work 38, 42 (44, 46) 48, 50 (52, 56) 56, 62 (68, 72)sts in pattern removing chart stitch markers as you get to them (this end the cable for the bottom under arm), bind off 8, 8 (8, 8) 8, 8 (8, 8) 10, 10 (10, 10)sts, work 19, 21 (22, 23) 24, 25 (26, 28) 28, 31 (34, 36)sts in pattern removing chart stitch markers as you get to them (this end the cable for the bottom under arm).
Put all stitches aside DO NOT CUT YARN.
Sleeves (make 2)
Cast on now 22, 24 (24, 24) 26, 26 (28, 30) 32, 34 (36, 38) sts on smaller dpn needles and join in the round.
Work in k1p1 ribbing 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 3, 3 (3, 3) 4, 4 (4, 4)cms/ 1, 1 (1, 1) 1.25, 1.25 (1.25, 1.25) 1.5, 1.5 (1.5, 1.5)ins
Switch to larger dpn needles
Set-up round – k3, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (6, 7) 8, 9 (10, 11), pm, p1, k4, m1, k4, m1, k4, p1, pm, k3, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (8, 7) 8, 9 (10, 11)
You will now have 24, 26 (26, 26) 28, 28 (30, 32) 34, 36 (38, 40) sts on the needles
Work in pattern for 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) rounds
Next row:
Increase 1 sts on beginning and end of round every other round 3, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) times,
Then increase 1 sts on each side every 4th round 2, 5 (6, 4) 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) times,
Then increase 1 sts on each side every 6th round 0, 0 (0, 2) 4, 6 (4, 0) 2, 0 (0, 0) times,
Then increase 1 sts on each side every 8th round 0, 0 (0, 0) 1, 0 (1, 1) 0, 0 (0, 0) times,
Then increase 1 sts on each side every 10th round 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 5) 0, 4 (7, 4) times,
Then increase 1 sts on each side every 12th round 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (0, 0) 4, 2 (0, 3) times,
[34, 36 (38, 38) 38, 40 (40, 44) 46, 48 (52, 54) sts]
Continue working pattern until work measures 11.5, 13.5 (15.5, 17.5) 19, 20.5 (26.5, 29) 29.5, 33 (38, 38) cms or 4.5, 5.25 (6, 7) 7.5, 8 (10.5, 11.5) 11.75, 13 (15, 16) ins from cast on edge. Bind off all stitches leaving a long enough tail to sew the sleeve on.
Work 30, 32 (34, 34) 34, 36 (36, 40) 41, 43 (47, 49) sts, Bind off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (5, 5) sts, sl bor marker, Bind off 4, 4 (4, 4) 4, 4 (4, 4) 5, 5 (5, 5) sts
[26, 28 (30, 30) 30, 32 (32, 36) 36, 38 (42, 44)]
Cut yarn leaving enough to weave in ends, put aside on a stitch holder.
Now connect the sleeves and body, while keeping in cable pattern as follows:
Back: k18, 20 (21, 22) 23, 24 (25, 27) 27, 30 (33, 35), pm, k1, pm
Sleeve: Work 26, 28 (30, 30) 30, 32 (32, 36) 36, 38 (42, 44) sts from stitch holder, pm
Front: k1, pm, k36, 40 (42, 44) 46, 48 (50, 54) 54, 60 (66, 70) sts in pattern, pm, k1, pm
Sleeve: Work 26, 28 (30, 30) 30, 32 (32, 36) 36, 38 (42, 44) sts from stitch holder, pm
Back: k18, 20 (21, 22) 23, 24 (25, 27) 27, 30 (33, 35)
You know have 128, 140 (148, 152) 156, 164 (168, 184) 184, 200 (220, 232) sts
Work 1 round
RAGLAN DECREASES
Work raglan decreases as follows:
knit to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, work in pattern to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, knit to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, work in pattern to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, knit to bor marker (8sts decreased).
Work raglan decreases as described above. Remember as you are decreasing to keep the cable on the sleeve in pattern as long as possible:
Every 4th round 0, 0 (0, 0) 0, 0 (2, 2) 3, 4 (4, 4) times,
Then every other round 6, 7 (8, 8) 8, 9 (7, 9) 8, 8 (10, 11) times.
[80, 84 (84, 88) 92, 92 (96, 96) 96, 104 (108, 112)]
Raglan shaping and neck shaping are worked AT THE SAME TIME using short rows for the last 4 raglan decreases. You can use the method of short rows that works best for you. I am using wrap and turn short rows and describe those below.
Row 1 (RS): knit to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, work in pattern to 2sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssk, k2, w&t
Step 2 (WS): Purl to beginning of round marker (mid back).
Step 3 (WS): purl to 2sts before marker, p2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssp, work in pattern to 2sts before marker, p2tog, sm, k1, sm, ssp, p2, w&t
Step 4 (RS): Purl to beginning of round marker (mid back).
A total of 8 stitches have been increased in these 4 steps (the 4 steps equals 1 raglan increases) Repeat steps 1-4, knitting the wraps and the next stitch as you pass them, 3 more times, so the last 4 raglan decreases have been worked.
[48, 52 (52, 56) 60, 60 (64, 64) 64, 72 (76, 80)]
Work more 1 more round in pattern knitting the wraps as you get to them.
NECK
Switch to smaller circular needles.
Work in k1p1 ribbing for 2, 2 (2, 2) 2, 2 (2, 2) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) 2.5, 2.5 (2.5, 2.5) cms/ .75, .75 (.75, .75) .75, .75 (.75, .75) 1, 1 (1, 1) 1, 1 (1, 1) ins
FINISHING
Stitch the underarms closed. I prefer a kitchener st but you can use your preferred st. Weave in all ends and block as desired
ABBREVIATIONS
bor – beginning of round
cb1/2 – cable back 1 behind 2 – place the next st on a cable needle, hold in back, knit the next 2 sts, knit the st on the cable needle
cf2/1 – cable front 2 over 1 – place the next 2 sts on a cable needle, hold them in front, knit the next st, knit the 2 sts on the cable needle
k – knit
k2tog -knit 2 stitches together
m1l – pick up from front to back the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through back loop
m1r – pick up from back to front the strand between the 2sts on your needles, knit through the front loop
P – purl
p2tog -purl 2 stitches together
pm – place marker
sm – slip marker
ssk – slip next st knitwise, slip next st knitwise, place stitches back onto left needle, knit both slipped sts together
ssp – slip next st purlwise, slip next st purlwise, place stitches back onto left needle, purl both slipped sts together
tb1/2 – twist back 1 behind 2 – place the next st on a cable needle, hold in back, knit the next 2 sts, purl the st on the cable needle
tf2/1 – twist front 2 over 1 – place the next 2 sts on a cable needle, hold them in front, purl the next st, knit the 2 sts on the cable needle
Love Came Down Sweater PDF
If you have questions or want to share who you’re knitting this for, I’d love to hear from you. Leave a comment below and let’s chat knitting.
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The post Love Came Down Sweater: A Free Bottom Up Raglan Sweater Pattern With Heart Details appeared first on The Knit in the Womb Blog.
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